Lefty O'Doul's: Old San Francisco

In response to one of my requests via Facebook, I thought I would review a bar in San Francisco that can pretty much be defined as a cultural institution: Lefty O'Doul's.

For those of you who have never been to a bar in San Francisco or you're from out of town and you're trying to get a taste of the city, I would highly recommend making Lefty's one of you're first stops. If not for the sole reason that it's located in Union Square (one of most popular areas of the city and a Mecca for shopping) it's a reminder of what the look and feel of Old San Francisco used to be. The interior features a collection of sports memorabilia from the bygone era of DiMaggio, with a bar on the left and a hofrbrau on the right. Here, you can order just about any drink you can think of, along with a wide assortment of draft beers from salty bar tenders who may as well have been there since the place opened in 1958, and get a great fresh carved sandwich to go with it! Personally, I'm partial to their Black & Tans.

In addition to the old theme is their piano bar. You can go in there on just about any night of the week and listen to one of the many regular players they have perform a great cover of a Billy Joel, Elton Jon or other great popular piano song. The funny thing about Lefty's also is the crowd it draws. It's not unusual to see a guy who's completely hamsauced on a barstool sitting next to a couple of cops who are just there to grab a bite for lunch or dinner. It also grabs the sports fans, the older crowd, doormen, and workers from around Union Square. Think of the bar in the sitcom "Cheers", and Lefty's is actually a pretty close equivalent.

Lefty's is on Geary Street, right in Union Square, right in the heart of the city, so it's right by all the major public transportation. It's great for anytime of the day, even breakfast, but I like it as a late night spot, perfect after a day of work or play. Just be careful when trying to get to the restroom there after having a few drinks. That may sound strange, but the hall to the restroom is actually along a long, steep flight of stairs. Many people have eaten it hard while tripping on the way there. The upside is, it'll be just another story to tell.

House of Shields: Because I had to...

As I've mentioned in earlier posts, San Francisco is a commuter's city. Thousands of people, including myself, live (and die) by the transit schedule. In fact, right now the entire city is on edge as it prepares for yet another BART employee strike which will cripple it. I've never visited the 5th level of Hell, but I've always imagined it being something close to Bay Area traffic during commute hours in the middle of a BART strike (it happened about 3 months ago, trust me, my analogy is accurate). And if you're a frequent passenger, you're familiar with delays and the long gaps between trains. Fortunately for myself I've found a solution - it's a drinking establishment that's older than the street it's on, and it's right across market street next to the nearest BART and MUNI station: "The House of Shields".

One of the things I really like about this place, apart from it's convenient location, is the whole look and feel. Because the bar has been around since 1908, it still maintains the unique look and feel from that era. I'm talking about brass lighting sculptures, elaborate wood interior, small intimate booths, and a nice loft area with rattan furniture to lounge and hangout with friends. Even the bartenders there wear the old school barman uniforms - white dress shirt with a black tie and apron. And they're pretty sharp too. Not only are they quick to take your drink order and make it fast, but they don't mind a little bit of conversation or back-and-forth. There's a cozy intimate vibe here with the music at just the right level so you can actually be social, not have crappy pop music blasting in your ears. And people wonder why there's nostalgia for traditional American bars? I think not.

Another little charm of this place is their menu. It's pretty narrow when it comes to cocktails, but just a bartender what you want and they'll pour a damn good (and strong) one. They have a pretty knowledgeable staff when it comes to classic old-school cocktails. The beer list is also minimal, but it gets the job done; they have a sweet porter on tap as well as some hoppy selections. But if you come here for the first time, I would highly recommend you try their "Moscow Mule" as they're famous for it. It's a sweet little vodka and ginger beer concoction that they serve in a copper mug. I guarantee if you go anytime during peak hours on a Thursday or Friday night, you'll find at least a few people drinking them - they allegedly serve the best ones on the city.

Because of it's location, House attracts an eclectic mix of people. On any given night it attracts the business crowd from the financial district to hipsters, the 'Twitter-ati', or others. But the crowd is usually pretty mellow, apart from the occasional jackass who's crying to a bartender about his Manhattan not being perfect. And because of its size, it also can get pretty packed, especially during the holidays. As it gets closer to Christmas, there's often a private party during the evenings for a group of office workers or the like. But just be patient, for many people it's just a stop in their extensive night of pub crawling. I've spent many late nights here waiting for the next BART train and I imagine I'll spend more. Here there's no clock on the wall for a reason, I feel like the train is waiting for me.

The Thirsty Bear: Tapas & Beer

Part of the most exciting about about being young student in a big city like San Fran, is diverse range of people you meet and come into contact with - especially in grad school. I've had the pleasure of making friends with individuals who've come from all over the world, each with their own unique background and story to tell. And what's even better is getting to know them over a few drinks. That's how I became acquainted with the "Thirsty Bear" on Howard Street.

Last year, I was out with some friends after working on a rather larger project. After successfully completing it, we figured a night cap would end things on the right note. Now one of my friends (I won't name her), spent a good deal of time living abroad in Spain. If you talk to her about her experience, she'll go on endlessly. I mean that in a good way, she's really passionate about it, especially Basque culture. We were trying to figure out a good place nearby that we could go to grab a few celebratory drinks and something light to eat. Needless to say, she recommended the "Bear", so we went ahead.

I gotta say, she knocked it out of the park with the recommendation. The "Thirsty Bear" not only has a full bar with cocktails, wines, Sangria (Ugh!), but they brew their own beer as well. And they've got a decent palate range, too. I'd recommend the Grizzly Bear Red Ale and the Howard Street IPA. They're both definitely enough to keep you running, but they've also got a Pilslner, Wheat Beer, and a number of seasonal beers. The Meyer Extra Special Bitter is definitely a must as well.

But what's great about the "The Thirsty Bear" is that they do a really great job of pairing drinks with food. But not just any food - tapas. Tapas are a wide variety of snacks and appetizers in Spanish cuisine; they're awesome. To give you an idea, they can be dates stuffed with goat cheese, olives with herbs and garlic, calamari, empanadas, or one of my favorites, roasted peppers stuffed with cheese and spinach. They're great because you ca enjoy them as a light snack, or if you go with a group, you can all order one and share so you try a little of everything. The "Bear" also has a menu that features larger portions with burgers, sandwiches and other bar food. But hey, why not try a specialty? And if you're so enchanted by the experience, they have a wide selection of Spanish wines to enjoy (but some of the higher end ones require a full bottle purchase around $55). 

My only knock on this place (and it's not really a knock) is that it is crowded! I definitely would not try to get a table here during a good Warriors or 49ers game, you'll be sitting far away from the screens if you're lucky enough to find anything. I would recommend this place as a nice little after-work, or late afternoon spot. Just the right time of day to relax, like they would in Spain.

Jon Taffer: A Real American Hero

For this latest post, I thought I'd take a departure and introduce you to someone who accepts nothing less than perfection when it comes to bars. For any of you who have been living under a rock for the last 2 years, there is a force on network television that rivals nature. His name: Jon Taffer. 

Taffer is the host of the reality series Bar Rescue on Spike TV, which attempts to turn failing bars around back to profitability. The show emphasizes his experience and credentials, pitching him as "one of the best bar consultants in the world". And a little research on the web confirms this as he is the owner of Taffer Dynamics, Inc., the president of the Nightclub and Bar Media Group, 'inventor' of the NFL Sunday Ticket concept, and has been responsible for managing over 800 successful establishments. That's all well and good - he's definitely a guy who knows his stuff, but any attempt to describe or explain this man's style or personality in how he goes about doing this, is merely futile. 

Wikipedia attempts to describe Taffer as follows:

"Taffer exhibits a boisterous, no-nonsense, and confrontational approach intended to shock and push the owners/workers into making drastic changes—not excuses—immediately. As people are naturally resistant to change, at different points along the way, members of the ownership and/or staff resist Taffer's new ideas, strategies, and tactics—which he presents on "my way, or, the highway"–type terms (even though the owners do not have to keep any of the changes the production company brings to their business, after filming ends)."

Again, this explanation doesn't do justice to the power of Jon Taffer, he must be experienced. Just check out how he responds to the poor cook when he finds out that she picked up raw meat before handling cooked food without washing her hands. It's a short snippet, but you'll get the idea:

So sub-par bar owners beware. Taffer will call you out on your inadequacies. If he finds out you don't have a working POS system, he'll tell you "Friday's does it." If your excuse for not turning a profit is the economy, he won't sympathize, he'll just tell you "that's bulls*&t, you should know better" with a look on his face that will shame you in front of all of your employees. And if you're cross contaminating your kitchen by handling raw food and cooked food at the same time... well, you know.

Send this man to Washington D.C.! He'd have that whole place turned around in no time. Forget the Republican or Democrat nominee in 2016, write in "Jon Taffer" on your ballot.

 To watch more of this genius work his magic (shame the unsuspected but deserving, shut down bars and bend an owner's staff at his will) Bar Rescue airs on Sundays at 9PM.